Strawberries

The man in the wilderness asked of me
How many strawberries grew in the sea.
I answered him as I thought good,
»As many as red herrings grow in the wood.«

STRAWBERRIES IN THE HOME GARDEN
Extension Horticultural Specialist

INTRODUCTION:

Strawberries are a welcome addition to any home garden. They are relatively easy to grow, require a minimum of space, and
virtually no chemicals are needed. From as few as 25 transplants to start a matted row, a berry yield in excess of 50 pounds
can be achieved one year after planting. Strawberries require a site that is open to direct sunlight most of the day. Try to avoid
very low-lying areas prone to spring frosts, and you should definitely plan to purchase a white spunbonded row cover to
protect open strawberry blossoms from spring frosts/freezes. The same cover may be used for bird control during harvest.

Berries not eaten fresh can be readily frozen or preserved. Besides being an excellent dessert fruit, strawberries are a good
source of vitamin C as well as being low in calories (1/2 cup fills an adult's daily need for vitamin C and equals about 25
calories).

VARIETY SELECTION:

There are many strawberry varieties available, but it is best to select only varieties adapted to the climatic conditions found in
your area. Start with disease-free certified plants from a reliable nursery. It is not a good practice to use your own plants or
your neighbor's plants to set a new patch. Generally two to three varieties will be needed to extend the ripening season over a
four to five week period. Everbearing varieties, Ozark Beauty and Superfection, and newer Dayneutral varieties, Tristar and
Tribute, have generally not performed well in North Carolina.

It is recommended that you speak to your Cooperative Extension Agent and/or the North Carolina Department of Agriculture
for a listing of anthracnose-free nurseries. For the mountain and piedmont areas, choose red stele resistant varieties, Earliglow
and Sunrise, in soils where this disease is present.

FERTILIZATION:

Key Objectives – the strawberry plant is shallow rooted and must be fertilized during the growing season to keep
it vigorous. And, plants should be fertilized before September, prior to the period of fruit-bud initiation.

Soil analytical services provided free of charge by the N.C. Department of Agriculture provide information on soil pH,
dolomitic lime requirement, available phosphorus, potassium and magnesium levels, percentage humic matter, and total nitrogen
content. However, there is no satisfactory analytical method for determining the amount of nitrogen in the soil sample that is
immediately available for plant growth. The percentage humic matter and total nitrogen content give indications of overall soil
fertility and this can be a useful guide to nitrogen availability. Essentially, you should follow the test recommendations for
adjusting soil phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) before planting. If no soil test has been made, broadcast about 4 pounds of
10-10-10 fertilizer for each 100 feet of row 2 to 3 weeks before planting strawberries.

First season fertilizer – if new plants appear light green and are not growing well, sidedress with nitrogen (N) about one month
after planting. Apply either 1 1/2 pound ammonium nitrate per 100 feet of row, or about 5 pounds 10-10-10 per 100 feet of
row. A topdress application of ammonium nitrate at 1 1/2 pounds per 100 feet of row should be made again in late August.
When topdressing strawberry plants, apply the fertilizer evenly and be sure to brush all fertilizer off the leaves to protect from
fertilizer burn. The late August N application is necessary to promote good flower bud development in the fall. Very light
coastal soils need additional N again in late January. The rate suggested at this time is 3/4 pounds ammonium nitrate, or 2 1/2
pounds 10-10-10 per 100 feet of row.

Second season fertilizer – prior to mowing the strawberry foliage at renovation (see Renovation), broadcast 3 to 4 pounds of a
complete fertilizer (e.g. 10-10-10) or 1 1/2 pounds ammonium nitrate per 100 feet of row. Follow the same recommendations
indicated for the first season fertilizer program in late August and again in late January (for sandy coastal soils). Prior to
renovation, a second soil sample can be taken to furnish more exact recommendations for the summer and fall growing period.

Organic fertilizers – many of these if properly used are perfectly satisfactory. Dried Blood (12-14% N) is of course organic and
immediately available. It leaves an acid reaction. Bone Meal contains 20-24% phosphoric acid, acting slowly, while steamed
bone meal acts more quickly. Wood ashes can be used for supplying potash. For those who wish more information contact
your County Cooperative Extension Office.

MULCHING:

Key Objectives – in western N.C., the foothills and upper piedmont, a mulch is applied in the early winter,
preferably after the ground has frozen for the first time, to prevent the soil from freezing and thawing and heaving
of the plants. Also, when growth begins in the spring, a mulch of straw or pine needles on the ground helps to
keep the berries clean as they ripen, conserves the moisture in the soil and is an excellent means for controlling
weeds.

EASTERN CAROLINA AND CENTRAL PIEDMONT – Apply pine needles or grain straw in February. Scatter lightly over
plants and in middles between rows.

WESTERN CAROLINA, FOOTHILLS AND UPPER PIEDMONT – In December, broadcast sufficient pine needles or
grain straw in the middles and around the plants to protect crown. Use a light application on top of the plants at the higher
elevations after the ground has frozen. This will prevent heaving of the plants and protect them from cold, drying winds when
there is no snow cover.

SOIL TESTING AND PLANTING:

It is best to test the soil four to six months before planting. If the pH is too low, raise it to the level suggested by the soil test
with dolomitic lime. Strawberries require a soil pH in the range of 5.5 to 6.5. The soil should be worked into a fine mellow
condition for planting. Wait one year before planting strawberries in ground in which grass sod has been grown.

Set dormant-stored plants in March in eastern N.C. and during March or April in the piedmont and western N.C.
Straw-berries are best planted in the matted row system. For a matted row bed, set the plants 1 1/2 to 2 feet apart in the row.
Space the rows 3 1/2 to 4 feet apart. A matted row is encouraged to develop from the runner plants that grow from the mother
plant. Set plants with the with the root straight down (never bent) and with the crown even with the top of the ground. Soon
after planting blossoms will emerge that should be pinched to encourage early runnering from the mother plant.

Table 1. STRAWBERRY VARIETIES SUGGESTED FOR HOME GARDENS IN
N.C.
AREA FRUIT FRESH PROCESS
VARIETY ADAPTED* SEASON SIZE QUALITY QUALITY

Apollo all mid-late Lg good good
PLANT MAKING ABILITY: low-mod
SPACING MATTING ROW (ft): 1-1/2

Atlas CP,P early-mid Lg fair fair
PLANT MAKING ABILITY: high
SPACING MATTING ROW (ft): 2

Cardinal all midseason Med good v. good
PLANT MAKING ABILITY: v. high
SPACING MATTING ROW (ft): 2

Earlibelle CP,P v. early Sm good v. good
PLANT MAKING ABILITY: v. high
SPACING MATTING ROW (ft): 2 1/2

Earliglow WNC,P v. early Sm excel excel
PLANT MAKING ABILITY: mod-high
SPACING MATTING ROW (ft): 2

Prelude P,CP v. early Lg excel good
PLANT MAKING ABILITY: mod
SPACING MATTING ROW (ft): 1-1/2

Sunrise all early Sm fair fair
PLANT MAKING ABILITY: v. high
SPACING MATTING ROW (ft): 2-1/2

Tenn.
Beauty WNC late Sm fair fair
PLANT MAKING ABILITY: mod
SPACING MATTING ROW (ft): 2

Titan CP,P early-mid Lg excel v. good
PLANT MAKING ABILITY: low-mod
SPACING MATTING ROW (ft): 1-1/2

*Adapted area designations: CP=coastal plain; P=piedmont;
WNC=western N.C.; all=adapted to all areas.